How to Do Fusible Appliqué (Raw-Edge Appliqué): A Step-by-Step Tutorial for Beginners

Examples from the Thread, White, and Boom! Quilt Pattern

If you’ve been curious about fusible appliqué (or you’ve tried it one way and didn't fall in love yet), this post will walk you through my favorite method step-by-step.

This is a general fusible (AKA raw-edge) appliqué tutorial you can use for any project — but I’ll be showing examples and giving extra tips specifically for my Thread, White, and Boom! quilt pattern.

What We’ll Cover

• To prewash or not prewash? And what about starch?
• What fusible appliqué is (and why it’s beginner-friendly)
• Supplies + my favorites (including optional time-savers)
• Step-by-step: trace → first fuse → cut → place and second fuse → stitch
• Stitch options + stitch settings (including my exact settings for Thread, White, and Boom!)
• Troubleshooting + FAQs

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Making the "Thread, White, and Boom!" Quilt?

While this is a general fusible appliqué tutorial, I’ve used the Thread, White, and Boom! quilt for all my examples. If you are following along with this patriotic July 4th pattern, you're in the right place!

Look for the specific pattern call-outs (like my exact stitch settings and placement tips) throughout the post to help you get the exact look from the pattern cover.

👉🏻 Get the Thread, White, and Boom! Pattern Now!

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Before You Begin 

Should You Prewash and/or Starch?

There’s no one “right” answer here for quilting.

• Prewashing: I sometimes prewash, but I usually don’t for quilts — and I did not prewash for this project.
  • In general, prewashing matters most when you’re making something that needs to fit (like clothing).
  • If you do choose to prewash and you want to keep the bolt fold so your fabric stays easy to cut evenly afterward: stitch a long basting stitch about 1" away from the fold down the full length of the fabric before washing/drying. Then rip it out before you cut.
• Starch: I usually love starch, but I didn’t use it here.
  • Starch can sometimes interfere with fusible web (like Wonder Under) adhering properly.
  • If you do starch, test on scraps first with your fusible web.

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Fusible Appliqué, Explained

If you want the quick version (or you just want to mentally preview the process before you start), read this section. If you want the full how-to with photos and tips, jump to the step-by-step tutorial after the supplies section.

Fusible appliqué (also called raw-edge appliqué) is a method of attaching a fabric shape onto a background fabric using a fusible web (a heat-activated adhesive). The edges stay raw (as opposed to needle-turn appliqué where the edges get turned under as you stitch). Then you machine stitch around the edges to secure it long-term and keep it from fraying.

Let’s talk supplies and then we’ll get into the exact how-to.

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Supplies 

Links below are affiliate which means you support an independent creator when you shop. I make a small commission at no additional cost to you when you make purchases after clicking these links. Use my code SEWWORTHY10 for 10% off at Sewing Parts Online.

Basic Sewing Supplies

• Thread:
  • Aurifil monofilament (clear) is great if you want the stitching to disappear (use a regular poly or cotton in the bobbin)
  • A coordinating thread (or white!) can also be beautiful, especially when you want the stitching to add definition or offset similar colored fabrics from each other visually
• Machine Needle: Your normal piecing needle works just fine, but if you have a needle you love for zig zag/blanket stitch, use it. Top stitch needles are a good place to start if you want to get something specifically for appliqué.
• Seam ripper (maybe if you have it you wont need it? ◡̈ )
• Presser foot and stitching plate that allow a wide stitch (i.e. NOT a straight stitch foot and plate).
  • I highly recommend a clear foot. I used a clear, open-toe foot, but I’m getting an appliqué foot to try next. It’s clear, allows a wide stitch, but isn’t open-toe which I think will help with holding the appliqué pieces down a little better as I sew around them.

Must-Haves

• Fusible web (paper-backed): Pellon Wonder Under
  • This is my go-to. It sticks the best, it’s user-friendly, it doesn’t get on my iron, and it’s inexpensive. I also love that you can buy it by the yard (17" wide) or by the roll (15" wide).
    • Note: there are other products you can use, but they may have different directions than what will be discussed here. Follow the instructions of the product you are using.
• Fabric for appliqué shapes
  • Choosing Fabric Tip: When you’re choosing fabrics, make sure there’s enough contrast in value (light vs. dark), otherwise your appliqué can visually “disappear” into the background. (For Thread, White, and Boom!, make sure the red and blue have different values.)
    • If you’re making a July 4th quilt or a patriotic wall hanging, it's especially important to inspect your red and blue fabrics. While red and blue look very different to your eye, it can be difficult to notice when their values are similar without this trick. 
    • To compare the value of two fabrics, put them next to each other, take a quick photo, and apply a black-and-white filter.
    • If they look like a similar shade of gray, their values are close and they may be hard to tell apart.
    • Ideally, in the black-and-white photo, one fabric should look visibly darker than the other.
      
    • Did it surprise you to see that the bottom fabrics have nearly the same value despite the fact that they look so different? As appliqués they would be hard on the eye. In this situation, I'd recommend getting a darker blue, closer to navy, to pair with that bright red.
  • Two new patriotic fabric collections I'm loving are: 
    • Art Gallery Fabrics Bloomin' Americana
    • Riley Blake Designs Firework Fields
  • If you want to make one just like mine, quilt and table runner/door hanger kits are available at Fieldstone Fabric. Quantities are extremely limited, so do not wait if you want this!
• Iron + ironing surface
  • I love my Oliso ProPlus smart iron and my Gypsy Quilter wool pressing mat.
• Pencil (for tracing)
  • Mechanical pencils are best for keeping a sharp point while you trace. Graphing mechanical pencils, with an even smaller lead than normal (0.3 mm) are my favorite!
• Cutting tools
  • Small sharp scissors. Just note that they’ll be used to cut the paper backing of the fusible web, so use a pair you’re ok using on paper. If that freaks you out a little, get a pair you can dedicate for this purpose.
• Templates. Of course you need shapes to appliqué! You can draw your own (make sure to mirror them), use templates from a pattern (like Thread, White, and Boom!), trace them from a book of templates, or find free ones online.

Optional (But Helpful!)

• Stabilizer (sometimes helpful depending on fabric + stitch choice). I recommend a tear-away variety. Simply place it under your bottom fabric as you stitch to help keep your stitching flat and even. Tear it off from the back after stitching.
  • Tip: Try a quick test on scraps with stabilizer and without. For this project, I was able to get away without it! If your fabric distorts under the stitching, use stabilizer.
• Pressing sheet (or parchment paper) to protect your iron and your surface 
  • My Oliso is so easy to clean, and I tend to cut my fusible just sliiiiightly smaller than the fabric I'm applying it to to avoid getting gunk on my pressing mat, so I don't use a pressing sheet.
• Novodon 5 foot wool pressing mat. Especially helpful for the Thread, White, and Boom! pattern. You can place all appliqués and fuse without having to move anything around or use any pins. Just place and press.
• Snag Magic needle. Use it to quickly pull loose thread to the back without having to thread a regular needle one million times. (similar on Amazon)
• MAJOR time-savers (totally not required, but I love them and have found plenty of other uses for them, too):
  • CutterPillar lightpad + mounting magnets (for tracing): Using a lightpad to trace templates onto fusible web is almost not optional in my opinion. Yes, you can trace at a bright window, but if you invest in a lightpad once, you’ll keep finding new uses for it. Promise.
    • Other ways I use my lightpad: handwritten quilt labels + foundation paper piecing (FPP)
    • Tip: The CutterPillar mounting magnets keep the paper template + fusible from shifting while you trace
      
  • AccuQuilt GO! Me cutting system + GO! Star Dies (for Thread, White, and Boom!): There are a lot of stars in this pattern. You can absolutely trace and cut each one by hand — but if you want to do it much faster and get them perfectly uniform, an AccuQuilt is a game-changer.
    • For reference: the first time I used mine, I cut about 50 stars in 10 minutes. I’ve not timed how long it would take me to trace and cut 50 stars by hand, but I'd assume it would likely be in the multiple hours range
      
    • If you use an AccuQuilt for the stars, you won’t need to trace the star shapes at all. Instead:
      • Iron the fusible web onto the back of your fabric. Do NOT remove the paper backing yet.
      • Cut your fusible-backed fabric into strips: 3.5" wide for 3" stars, 2.5" wide for 2" stars
      • Fold the strip in half twice to cut 4 stars at once (max 4 layers when using fusible)
      • Place over the star die in the size you need
      • Cover with an AccuQuilt cutting mat and turn the wheel to crank it through the press.
      • Remove the cutting mat and stars!
    • Yardage note: dies require strips/folding, so if you use an AccuQuilt, allow a tad more fabric than the minimum yardage, just to be safe.
    • AccuQuilts are a bit of a splurge item—if you’re not ready to invest, ask around; many quilt shops or guilds let you borrow or rent time on theirs. Some really good libraries even offer sewing machines to borrow, perhaps you may find one with an Accuquilt

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Step-By-Step Fusible Appliqué Tutorial (With Thread, White, and Boom! Examples)

Important note: These steps are written for Pellon Wonder Under. Different fusible web products often work differently, so always read the instructions for the product you’re using.

(For example: some fusibles are “stick on” and only need to be ironed once in the process, and some have two backings to remove. For the process in this post — and especially for this pattern — Wonder Under is the most reliable and most user-friendly in my experience.)

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Step 1: Trace the Shapes Onto the Smooth, Paper-Backed Side of Your Fusible Web

For Thread, White, and Boom!, the appliqué templates are already reversed or mirrored (except where the shapes are fully symmetrical), so you don’t need to worry about flipping anything — you can trace and trust they’ll come out the right way.

Be sure the 1" test print squares come out 1". If they don't, check that your printer settings are at 100%, not scaling.

Tips for tracing:

• Keep your sets together (especially if you’re tracing multiples of the same shape)
• Use your space efficiently, but don’t cram things so tightly that you can’t rough-cut them apart
• Leave room to rough cut around shapes (outside the lines, not on the lines) so you can fuse in manageable chunks or rearrange for the fabric you have available
  • It's not necessary to cut them apart if they're laid out how you want them on your fabric already.
    
• Grain direction
  • If you have a strong stripe/print direction you care about, decide it now so your appliqués look consistent
  • Also be aware of the bias. Shapes cut on the bias, or diagonal of the grain line, will be stretchier and a touch more finicky to handle.

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Step 2: Fuse the Fusible Web to Your Appliqué Fabric

Before you fuse, make sure your fabric is smooth and wrinkle-free. Any wrinkles left in place now will become permanent puckers after backing with fusible.

Place your Wonder Under with traced shapes on the wrong side of your fabric with the bumpy or textured side down. Press for 5-10 seconds on all areas. This takes a little time. If you don't press long enough, your fusible will not completely fuse and can stretch and tear when you remove the backing later. If you press too long, you could scorch your fabric.

My biggest fusing tips:

• Follow the Wonder Under directions (no steam)
• At this stage, I usually slide my iron as I fuse (not just press-and-lift, as is normally recommended). Just be gentle so you don’t distort your shapes.
• Protect your pressing surface by ensuring no fusible web is extending past your fabric’s edges

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Step 3: Cut Out the Shapes

I recommend waiting to do your final, precise cutting until closer to when you’ll actually use the pieces. If they sit around for a long time or get handled a lot, there’s more opportunity for fraying and wrinkling.

You can cut on the lines now!

Cutting tips:

• Small sharp scissors give you the most control
• For tight inside corners and curves, go slowly and make tiny cuts
• Curves look smoother when you rotate the fabric as you cut rather than rotating your scissors

Thread, White, and Boom! tip:

If you’re making the alternative “A” and “O,” you can use a 2" star instead of cutting out the inside holes. Fuse the stars to the letters after the letters are fused to the quilt top.

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Step 4: Peel the Paper Backing

Once your shapes are cut, peel off the paper backing to reveal the fusible.

My favorite way to start the peel (without damaging your fabric):

• Use a straight pin to score a small slit in the paper near the center of the shape (not at the edge).
• Pull the paper away from that slit and keep peeling.
• Avoid scissors — it’s easy to accidentally slice your fabric.
• Avoid scoring all the way to the edge — it can pull fibers away at the edge and cause extra fraying.

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Step 5: Place + Fuse the Shapes Onto the Background

Take your time here. This is the “design moment,” and it’s a lot easier to adjust placement before fusing than after.

Placement tips:

• Work at your pressing center so that you don’t have to move your fabrics after placement
• I love my 5 foot long Novodon wool pressing mat for the Thread, White, and Boom! pattern. The entire middle section fits on this extra long mat, so I can place all appliqués, take a step back to see it all at once, and fuse everything without moving it.
  • If you don't have a long mat, you may want to pin in place, but be sure to remove every pin before pressing!
• Use any reference points given in the pattern
• Use a quilting ruler to measure and center appliqués as needed
• If a piece needs to be centered, fold your background lightly to find the center
• Step back and look at it from a few feet away before committing
• Avoid pinning if possible as it can distort and buckle your appliqués. If you do use them, remove before pressing!
• For the Thread, White, and Boom! pattern, I recommend placing your center "250" or "USA" first and working outward.

When you’re happy with placement, fuse the shapes down according to your fusible instructions.

Pressing note: Once your shapes are placed, try to press-and-lift (instead of sliding the iron around), so you don’t accidentally shift pieces or stretch the edges.

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Step 6: Stitch It Down (Raw-Edge Finishing)

Fusing is not the final step. It’s just meant to hold it in place so you can stitch it securely.

Extended break tip: If you take a longer break between stitching sessions, try to leave your project laying flat (instead of folded or curled up) to help keep the appliqué edges from peeling up.

Thread Color Ideas

• If you want the stitching to disappear: Aurifil monofilament is great
  • Monofilament tip: If you use clear/invisible/monofilament thread on top, it’s usually best to use your regular cotton or polyester thread in the bobbin.
• If you want a crisp outline (and extra visual contrast between red/white/blue): white thread is best
• You can also use a coordinating thread (blends) or a contrasting thread (shows off the stitching)
  

No matter what thread you use, check your tension on scraps first. Adjust as needed.

Stitch Options

Start/stop tip: Back stitch at the beginning of your stitching, and if your machine has a lock stitch (or tie-off) function, use it at the end of each shape. If not, do a short backstitch at the end. Many machines with a backstitch button will do a few stitches in place when you press it if it is set to a decorative stitch.

For Thread, White, and Boom!, I like to start at an inner corner on the stars and along a straight side of the fireworks streaks. Find what’s most comfortable for you by practicing on scraps.

You can secure raw-edge appliqué with:

• Zig zag (very forgiving)
• Blanket stitch (so pretty!)
• Straight stitch (works, but the edges may fray right up to the stitching line over time, but some people like that look!)

Blanket Stitch Tip (so it actually looks right)

On a blanket stitch, the vertical stitches should land on the background right beside the appliqué, and the horizontal little “legs” of the stitch should bite into the appliqué edge. Think of this as wrapping your edge. If the entire stitch is on the appliqué, the edge will be left open an eventually fray to the stitching line.

If you’ve never used the blanket stitch before, I highly recommend practicing on scraps first (noticing a theme yet? practice, practice, practice!). Try out different stitch widths and lengths to get it just how you want it. Smaller stitch sizes take longer overall, but in my opinion, look lovely!

Pivoting Tips (Around Points and Inner Corners):

When you stop to pivot, keep an eye on which direction your needle will swing next so it doesn’t take a surprise bite out into space, i.e. the background. Whenever I stop, I'm thinking "leg is next" or "straight stitch is next."

Practicing on a few scrap stars goes a long way. I was nervous about turning corners, but after 2–3 stars it felt much more automatic. I could explain exactly how I make the turns, but it would be painstaking to try to copy me exactly and it's not an exact science. You're going to find your own best way after you try a few anyway. I promise, just take a deep breath, practice on scraps, and you've got this.

My best advice is to always pivot when the needle is on the right, either before a straight stitch or after a straight stitch, never when it's on the left in the middle of a leg stitch.

Also, it's worth noting that a pivot around a point of the stars may actually take me 2-3 pivots. An inside corner can be done in 1 pivot if I'm lucky enough for my needle to land exactly in the corner, but it often takes 2 pivots.

And the last thing I'll note about stitching around the stars is that I usually don't go 100% to the tippy point of the star. I usually get within about 1 stitch length and then stitch across the point, essentially couching over it. My points end up with about 5 stitches near the point after the 2-3 pivots and a few leg stitches, so they're very secure.

I made a video of stitching around one star and I narrated what I was thinking as I turned each corner and point and explained how I planned each pivot as I went. If you're still nervous to try it, give it a watch. I think it'll give you confidence to just try on some scraps!

For curves (like the firework streaks in Thread, White, and Boom!) go slow and pivot slightly, as necessary.

Speed Tip:

If your machine has a speed regulator, try setting your max speed to about 1/3-1/2 of the machine’s top speed (then adjust to what feels best for you).

Stitch Settings (General Starting Ranges)

These ranges are a great place to start, then adjust based on your machine and how “bold” you want the stitch to look:

• Zig zag: stitch length about 0.3–0.8 mm, width about 2.0–3.0 mm
• Blanket stitch: stitch length about 1.5–2.5 mm, width about 2.0–3.0 mm

Thread, White and Boom! Settings:

• My settings (Thread, White, and Boom!): I used a blanket stitch with width 1.5 mm and length 2.5 mm. Shown on the left, below.
• My tester's settings: My tester used blanket stitch width 3.0 mm and length 3.5 mm. Shown on the right, below.
  

(And for what it’s worth, when I asked on Instagram whether people prefer zig zag or blanket stitch for this look, the vote was overwhelmingly for blanket stitch.)

Burying Threads

At this point, you might be tempted to just snip your threads and move on. Don't! If you want your quilt to survive the washing machine and years of snuggles, you need to bury your thread tails. You can do this with a needle and thread, but I love to use my Snag Magic needle (similar on Amazon) because it's 10x faster. 

Instead of an eye, it has a large loop of what looks like fishing line on the end. You insert it through the fabric from top to back right next to a loose thread, quickly pull the thread through the fishing line loop, and pull the needle through to the back, pulling the thread along with it. 

It’s SO much faster than threading every single thread through a regular needle eye. There are also self-threading needles that look like they have a tiny goal post on top of the eye that allows you to quickly pop the thread into the eye rather than thread a traditional one.

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Thread, White, and Boom! Pattern-Specific Appliqué Notes

1) Stitch the Appliqués Down Before You Assemble All of the Sections of the Full Quilt Top

In the pattern, I designed the construction order so you can do your appliqué stitching in each section before piecing the whole quilt top together.

Why? Because it’s so much easier to stitch around appliqués when you’re not wrangling an entire quilt top through your machine. (Thanks to my tester, Kristen, for that suggestion!)

2) If You Plan to Longarm Your Quilt… You Still Need to Stitch Your Appliqués Down First

This is a question I get a lot: Is longarming enough to secure the appliqué?

My answer: No.

Longarming is not a substitute for stitching around raw-edge appliqué. In fact, longarming without securing the appliqué edges first can push and distort the edges as the quilt is quilted. 

You can absolutely longarm your finished quilt — just make sure you do your appliqué stitching first.

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Troubleshooting

Fusible Not Sticking

• Make sure you’re using the correct heat setting and pressing time for your fusible
• Skip the steam (Wonder Under specifically says no steam)
• If your iron isn’t getting hot enough, you may need to try a slightly longer press time
• Starch can interfere with fusible's ability to adhere. If you must use starch, test a scrap with your fusible first.

Edges Have Lifted Before Stitching Down

• If it's been a day or more since you fused your appliqués to the background, and you're just now coming back to stitch it down, you may notice some of the edges have lifted. Simply press again. The fusible material is still there and will basically remelt under heat and your edges will be nicely stuck again.

Help! I made a mistake!

• If you accidentally fused an appliqué in the wrong place and need to move it, it is possible. Be careful not to burn yourself, but you can attempt to remove it by pressing it again and pulling it off before it cools. Use extreme caution and don't get mad at me if you get burned!
• If residue remains on your background, try placing a piece of parchment paper over it, press, and remove the paper. Hopefully the residue will be on the paper instead of your fabric.

Edges Fraying More Than Expected

• Make sure your stitching is wrapping over the appliqué's edge to actually secure it
• Zig zag and blanket stitch is more secure than straight stitch if you want less fray
• If pieces have been handled a lot before stitching, you may see more fray. Wait to cut them and peel the backing until you’re ready to use them.
• I've noticed Art Gallery Fabrics are especially resistant to fraying.

Bubbling / Stiff Areas

• Use a pressing sheet and press evenly
• Too much heat/time can make some areas stiff
• Let the piece cool completely before moving it (moving while hot can cause bubbling)

Shadows Showing Through Light Fabric

• Consider a slightly heavier appliqué fabric (or a tighter weave)
• If you’re using a very light appliqué fabric, some darker fabrics will naturally shadow more.
• Layer your batting and backing behind and see if that helps. Much less light will show through with those layers applied in your final piece.

Shapes Won’t Release From Paper

• Try bending the paper back sharply (instead of pulling the fabric up)
• Use a pin tip to score a slit near the center, then tear by hand
• If the fusible is stuck to the paper too aggressively, double-check that you fused for the correct amount of time (not too short, not too long)
• Let cool completely before peeling backing. Melty adhesive can stretch as you peel and make a mess!

Gunk On Your Iron or Pressing Surface

• Ensure the fusible does not extend past your fabric when you iron it on the back
• If fusible does get on your iron, clean it right away (well, once it’s cool!) so it doesn’t transfer to future projects
  • I love my Oliso ProPlus Smart Iron, in part because it’s Diamond Ceramic Flow soleplate is non-stick and super easy to clean

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FAQ

Do I need stabilizer?

Sometimes. If your fabric is lightweight or your stitching is causing puckering, a stabilizer can help. For many quilting cotton appliqué situations, you may not need it — but it’s a great tool to have. Remember to remove it when done stitching.

Do I really have to stitch it down after fusing? Isn’t fusing permanent?

Yes, you need to stitch it down to secure it.

While fusible holds pretty well at first, it won’t stand up to handling, stretching, or washing all by itself. Ask me how I know…

Can I long arm a fused appliqué piece? How?

Yes!

Long arm after securing your appliqué down with machine stitching. If you don’t, the long arm may accidentally fold some of your pieces over — and with typical pantographs, it can’t secure every single edge of your appliqué pieces anyway.

You might find a longarmer who’s willing to do the appliqué stitching as custom work, but I’m guessing it would be pretty expensive.

Can I wash it?

Yes — but only once everything is stitched and completely finished.

I recommend:

• Cold wash
• Add a Shout Color Catcher to the washer drum (or even 2–3 if you want to be extra cautious)
• Line dry if you want to baby it

Can I do this without a fancy machine?

Yes!

A bigger throat space is definitely a nice-to-have for maneuvering pieces and bulky quilt tops, which is one reason I love my Baby Lock Allegro, but you can absolutely do fusible appliqué on a simple machine.

Is raw-edge appliqué beginner friendly?

Yes. I’d honestly call it the most beginner-friendly style of appliqué.

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Ready to Make Thread, White, and Boom!?

If you want to jump in and try raw edge appliqué, I highly recommend Thread, White, and Boom! as a beginner-friendly place to start! It includes a quilt, table runner, and door hanger, so you can even start small if you like!

👉🏻 Buy Thread, White, and Boom! today!